JEAN PAUL GAULTIER’S FASHION FREAK SHOW ☆☆☆☆
The Roundhouse , London

Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Fashion Freak Show was delayed for 3 years due to covid. Bringing together a kaleidoscope of circus, musical, burlesque, and catwalk show to London’s Roundhouse, has it been worth the wait? Judging by the horde of fashionistas, Insta influencers, and spritely 60-year-olds who were leaping on the chance to wear a 30-year-old Gaultier original, it was.

The show has a very loose narrative. At first it starts with scenes from Jean Paul’s earlier life. As promised in the preview that we did a few months ago, we meet Nana, the first transgender teddy bear. As Gaultier’s favorite childhood toy it was his first inspiration for design. Indeed, it turns out that the iconic Madonna conical bra was first designed for Nana. Take that Material Girl. His first drawn designs were daydreamed during his school lessons, to the consternation of his teachers. Then off to his first role at Pierre Cardin and his journey to design fame.

The story, such that it is, switches from chronological to inspirational. He envisages his influences with scenes from the Folies Bergere, pop music, clubs and sexual liberation. Perhaps the secret to his success is that his main influences were not other designers, they were the flames of avant-garde and pop culture. 

Each scene on the journey comprises the same elements. Super saturated colours dazzling on big screens, catwalk displays of fantastical outfits, and both live and recorded classic pop songs. Casting is superb. The combination of performers with the aching beauty of models, the sexy and sinuous moves of dancers, and the aerial skills of circus performers creates a thumping sensuous energy. The music is somewhat predictable, every one a familiar classic, and the live singing is nothing special but the overall impact is thrilling.

There are some dark moments to offset the general joie de vivre. The celebration of sexual liberation lives in the shadow of the pre medication AIDS crisis. Gaultier goes through heartbreak while enjoying career success. And there is even a villain, a member of the Fashion Police,  in a Wintour bob and sunglasses, who represents some of the more fickle and opportunistic elements of the fashion business. 

As with anything Gaultier creates it has the stamp of originality. The combination of catwalk, circus and burlesque has its own chaotic magic. Few other people could have pulled this off. It sits in that space he has always uniquely occupied, the overlap of fashion and entertainment.

FASHION FREAK SHOW
The musical spectacle based on the life of fashion icon Jean Paul Gaultier
London’s iconic Roundhouse
Friday 15 July - Sunday 28 August

Review by ANDREW HEBDEN

Queerguru Contributing Editor ANDREW HEBDEN is a MEDIA & CULTURAL STUDIES graduate spending his career between London, Beijing, and NYC as an expert in media and social trends. As part of the expanding minimalist FIRE movement, he recently returned to the UK and lives in Soho. He devotes as much time as possible to the movies, theatre, and the gym. His favorite thing is to try something (anything) new every day.