It is very rare that this writer is ever speechless for long, but on this first trip to San Francisco in decades, a visit to  Golden Gate Park did exactly that.  There, in its heart, is a 10-acre memorial for those impacted by AIDS: a dedicated space for healing, hope, and remembrance.  This is the National AIDS Memorial Grove that honors those who have fought against this ongoing pandemic.  San Francisco, with its large queer population, may have been the epicenter of the pandemic, especially at the peak of the disease, but as we quickly found out back then, no one was safe from HIV or the deadly opportunistic complications that could follow.

The combination of the trees and plants in the Grove makes for a stunningly beautiful natural setting that belies the relentless work of the hundreds of volunteers who have created the space and maintain it with such care. Its serenity is both comforting and uplifting and it became the unquestionable highlight of our visit.