Queerguru´s Ris Fatah reviews “Unzipped’ the newly remastered version of the seminal fashion documentary about legendary designer Isaac Mizrahi.

Take a step back in time to 1990s New York, arguably its greatest decade, with the relaunch of the iconic, remastered fashion documentary about designer Isaac Mizrahi, Unzipped.

Directed by his then boyfriend Douglas Keeve,1995’s Unzipped follows Mizrahi over a frenetic few months as he prepares for his Fall 1994 collection, shown during New York Fashion Week. Given access to all areas, and obviously knowing his subject to be TV gold, Keeve makes the most in capturing the generous, eccentric and lovable Mizrahi. The result is an unrivalled, intimate portrayal of life on Seventh Avenue, from an era we can now see had boundless creativity and a relatively informal, bohemian vibe, un-stifled by corporate greed. This was also an era before the internet, mobile phones, and influencers. How did we survive and know what to do?!

Mizrahi bounds around like an eager puppy, gathering inspiration for his next show. His broad, cultured, ADHD-like horizons capture a gamut of influences, ranging from The Mary Tyler Moore Show to Indigenous Arctic communities. He’s helped along by a cast of the great and the good – his fantastic mother, straight out of Brooklyn casting, friends such as comedienne Sandra Bernhard, fashion editor legends such as Polly Mellon, and every supermodel you could name. No one is spared a careful edit, and that’s what sets this documentary apart. In the current era of carefully self-produced documentaries, overseen by lawyers and controlling PRs, Unzipped refreshingly fires off unabashed in all directions like a loose cannon.

The role-call of legends featured includes Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Richard Gere, Helena Christensen, Eartha Kitt, Carla Bruni Sarkozy, Cindy Crawford, John Galliano, Kristen McMenemy, Ingrid Sischy, Andre Leon Talley, Christy Turlington and many more. Your memory will also be jogged by other big models from that time whom you may have forgotten about – Debbie Dietering, Claudia Mason, Yasmeen Ghauri, Patricia Velasquez, Amber Valetta, Shalom Harlow, Rosemary Ferguson and so on. This really was a golden era for fashion and supermodels.

The chain-smoking Mizrahi comes across well. His Soho atelier is intimate and cluttered. He’s hard-working, warm, kind, quick-witted and seemingly unfazed by his glamorous contemporaries. He wears his insecurities and neediness on his sleeve but doesn’t let them override his passion and design talent, even when he refers to the previous season’s bad reviews.

 

Filmed using both grainy black-and-white and colour film, Unzipped also enjoys an epic soundtrack. There’s no narration; it’s essentially fly-on-the-wall with asides to camera. There are glimpses of pre-gentrified mid-1990s New York when large ateliers were affordable. The clothes featured are cute and have stood the test of time.

All in all, another era, another life – a fabulous time-capsule of an iconic fashion period. I was there back then and this is an accurate reflection of those times. A must-see for anyone interested in fashion.   

 

RIS FATAH  SENIOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR  London & Ibiza

Queerguru Contributing Editor Ris Fatah is a successful fashion/luxury business consultant  (when he can be bothered) who divides and wastes his time between London and Ibiza. He is a lover of all things queer, feminist, and human rights in general.


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