The Kimono takes centre stage at the exciting new exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum (London) opening at the end of February. The Kimono is quintessentially a garment that says Japan and could be considered their national dress. Appearing in Japan around the 1660s and originating in China it became an icon of Japanese dress for women and men. A style that has endured and influenced fashion over the centuries to the present day.
The word Kimono means “something to wear”, from the verb Ki ‘to wear” (on the shoulders) and the noun mono “thing”. It takes the form of a sleeved T shaped garment.
Worn by both men and women and more famously in elaborate forms by Geisha girls.
Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan, is the epicentre for the traditional Kimono. To this day it is still worn by some women in the street. There are also shops in Kyoto where Kimonos can be hired for weddings or photo opportunities against traditional backdrops. Kimonos are also worn for many regal and religious ceremonies. Recently at the inauguration of the new Emperor and Empress many ladies of the court wore 12 Kimono one on top of the other.
The exhibition is the museums first major exhibition on the Kimono and the largest ever in Europe showing the history of this garment from the mid 17th century to now. Featuring Kimonos of the 17th century and 18th century, many shown in the UK for the first time, plus more contemporary pieces from well known international fashion designers, celebrities and many film and video costumes. The 315 pieces to be shown include exclusive Kimonos made for the exhibition, items drawn from the V & A’s own archive collection and the rest from museums and collections in Britain, Europe, America and Japan.
Catwalk designers who have used the Kimono as an inspiration are John Galliano for Dior, Alexander McQueen, notably for Bjork’s album cover “Homogenic” in 1997, Jean Paul Gaultier’s Kimono for Madonna in her video “Nothing Really Matters”, as well as garments by Yves Saint Laurent. On show too is the costume worn by Sir Alec Guinness as Obi-Wan Kenobi in the first Star Wars film “A New Hope” in 1977. More film costumes include those from the Oscar winning 2005 film “Memoirs of a Geisha”.
The exhibition catalogue ‘Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk’ by curator Anna Jackson is available from the V & A shop for £35 or on Amazon for £40.
The show opens at The Victoria and Albert Museum on February 29 2020 and runs till 21 June 2020. During that time there will be many related events within the museum revealing the Kimono and its influence and the ways in which fashion designers have reworked its legacy.
GRAHAM FRASER Queerguru’s Culture, Fashion and Arts Correspondent was once half of the award winning fashion designer duo WORKERS FOR FREEDOM. Years spent working in the luxury end of International fashion he now lives with his partner the artist RICHARD NOTT and their two Cavapoos Albert and Raf in a stunning renovated 1950’s house on the edge of the Sussex Downs with distant sea views.
