One of the last designers to show during the Fall 21 menswear season was Dolce & Gabbana. Their show which was due to be held in front of an actual physical audience had to be cancelled due to Covid-19 restrictions. They then had 2 weeks to re-think the whole concept of the event. Now, you see in this audience free zone, a bank of screens and guys walking along and socially distanced.
What you see on the stage in Milan today is a transformed world of spontaneity come into play. The whole collection of 113 exits is a portrait of a generation growing up with the influences of social media.
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Gone is the dandy, motif emblem suitings now cut up into patchwork applications, many in monochrome and especially fresh in colored velvets. Inspirations taken from streetwear and gilded up in gold with multi chains draped and attached.
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Thumping Justin Bieber soundtrack was a background sound with the appearance of Sia by video link. This presentation was a long way from the rustic influences of the 2 designers Sicilian heritage. Now the designs have a nod to fashion history with flight jackets, duvet coats, gold suits and even a Chanel inspired black/white boucle jacket.
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Also a youthful model cast, with diversity, played to a younger audience with a nod to androgyny. James, the nephew of Christy Turlington an ex professional baseball player at 6’3, in full female make-up strutted his stuff, taking the male modelling world by storm.
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The final garment of a white full length feather coat has to be homage to Liberace, a flamboyant piano playing gay icon from the past.
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Labels: 2021, Dolce & Gabbana, fashion, Graham Fraser
